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March 19, 2013
Necktie Cleaning as Much Art as Skill

CONCORD, N.C. — Much like the rebirth of natural fibers 25 years ago, many cleaners have little experience in the proper cleaning and finishing of a necktie.

CONCORD, N.C. — I am hoping we have turned the corner on the “casual workplace” trend and will begin to see an increase in the neckties to be cleaned. Much like the rebirth of natural fibers 25 years ago, many cleaners have little experience in the proper cleaning and finishing of a necktie.

Men have an emotional attachment to their ties. Favorite ties are worn until the edges and knot areas are threadbare. I am guilty of having more than 50 ties, but I wear one from the same eight or 10 on most occasions. My red tie with diamond shapes of royal blue and silver has been retired but still brings back memories of my first consulting job.

Cleaning a necktie is as much art as it is skill. It involves knowing more about what not to do than about aggressive techniques. Ties are not cheap. Polyester ties often sell at between $20 and $50; a good silk tie may sell for around $140. At the point where emotion and investment meet, the cleaner can easily find a profitable item.

June 19, 2012
Treating Acetate and Metallics

CONCORD, N.C. — Consider twists, turns and weaves when attempting stain removal

CONCORD, N.C. — Not all garments are created equal, just as not all stains can be removed on the dry side by a simple application of POG and dry cleaning. How a garment is constructed, the way its individual fibers are twisted, turned and woven is an important consideration when attempting localized stain removal. This month, I will address various fabrics and the characteristics that may impact the stain-removal process.

ACETATE

At one time, acetate was a commonly used fabric in garments. With the growth of polyester, acetate has been relegated, for the most part, to the role of a lining material. Unfortunately, this secondary use brings to mind an old cliché: out of sight, out of mind. The acetate and its sensitivities are still there, beneath the surface fabric.

When spotting acetate, be aware that it is highly susceptible to yarn slippage. Hold the steam gun a greater distance from the fabric to further reduce the pressure of the steam and air striking the surface of the fabric. Reduce the intensity of mechanical action used on acetate, and always apply this action over the solid portion of the spotting board.

May 2, 2012
European Study Supports Sustainability of Professional Textile Care

OPHEMERT, The Netherlands — Research compares solvents with domestic cleaning

OPHEMERT, The Netherlands — Results of a new benchmark study show that professional textile care, including new and alternative solvents, has an environmental impact that is two to three times less than the average domestic washing process, according to European industry association CINET (Comité International de l’Entretien du Textile).

CINET commissioned the study organized by the Dutch Technological Knowledge Center Textile Care (TKT) and conducted by the independent Netherlands Organization for Applied Scientific Research (TNO) in January through March of this year.

The research includes a comparison of traditional solvents (perc and hydrocarbon) and alternative solvents (Ipura, Siloxane D5, Rynex E3, SolvonK4 and wet cleaning) with domestic textile cleaning.

April 24, 2012
Texcare International Preview: Buzzword is Sustainability

FRANKFURT AM MAIN, Germany — Around 250 exhibitors and 15,000 trade visitors expected

FRANKFURT AM MAIN, Germany — Sustainability will be the dominant theme of Texcare International — World Market for Modern Textile Care when it returns here in two weeks.

Show organizer Messe Frankfurt says all international market leaders—including the Alliance International brands, Barbanti, Beirholms Vaeverier, Ecolab, Girbau, Heprotex, Jensen, Kannegiesser, Kreussler, LG Electronics, Lavatec Laundry Technology, Macpi, Miele, Multimatic, Pellerin Milnor, Renzacci and Veit—have registered to exhibit during the May 5-9 show.

Altogether, Messe Frankfurt expects to welcome around 250 exhibitors and 15,000 trade visitors. As in previous shows (the event is staged every four years), the proportion of manufacturers from outside Germany will exceed 60%; the most important exhibitor nations besides Germany are Italy and the United States, Messe Frankfurt says.

October 3, 2011
Youth’s Perc Project Prompts University Research into Drycleaning Residuals

WASHINGTON — A high school sophomore’s science project about the chemicals that remain in drycleaned clothing prompted a university study and publication online in a peer-reviewed environmental journal, the Washington Post reported recently.

A Georgetown University professor and graduate students assisted 15-year-old Alexa Dantzler with her experiment. She sewed squares of wool, cotton, polyester and silk into the lining of several men’s jackets and then had them cleaned at seven Northern Virginia drycleaners who had no knowledge of the experiment.

The research team determined that perc stayed in the fabrics and that levels increased with repeat cleanings, particularly in wool, the newspaper reported.

Industry representatives told the Post that the study was incomplete because the tested garments had been drycleaned but not pressed, which helps remove solvent.

Click here to view the published study.

August 21, 2009
How Do You Prevent Swirls when Finishing a Twill Weave?

Q: When my finisher presses slacks that are constructed with a twill weave (especially gabardine), a discoloration that resembles a swirl occurs. What causes this, and how can it be prevented?

A: This discoloration is sometimes referred to as “moiré.” Using vacuum while the head is in the down or locked position can cause this rippled look to occur. To avoid this problem, activate the vacuum as the head of the press is released.

October 10, 2008
The Real-World Science of Spotting

I’m amazed at the reaction of some “cleaners” when they first realize that stain removal is as much an art as it is a science. But one must have the science mastered before crossing over to the “artist” side of the profession.

May 28, 2008
What Causes a 'Skunky' Odor after Drycleaning?

Q: I received a white silk blouse that had a foul, “skunky” odor prior to the drycleaning process. After drycleaning, the odor was noticeably worse. I tried an odor-removing agent, but was not successful. What is the cause of this odor?

September 5, 2007
Keep Napped Fabrics from Getting Nappy

‘My coat was soft and smooth when I left it for cleaning, and now it’s rough and stiff, and feels awful. What did you do to my expensive cashmere? It’s ruined.”

Let’s hope you never have to face an irate customer over the appearance of a napped fabric such as camel’s hair or cashmere. Napping is the process of producing a surface finish in which the fiber ends are raised to the surface of the fabric — some surface fibers stand up, rather than lay flat as in a plain weave.

August 29, 2007
Why Won't Spandex Snap Back?

Q: After spotting fabrics that contain Spandex, why does the fabric distort or develop “blisters?”

A: Spandex yarns give the fabric the ability to stretch and recover (return to their prestretched state). Since Spandex yarns lack tensile strength, they often break from excess mechanical action (tamping or excessively heavy use of the spotting bone) while attempting to remove a stain on the spotting board.