Content about Concord

CONCORD, N.C. — In a previous edition of American Drycleaner, readers like you were given a “heads-up” about what to expect from the fashion styles entering the marketplace (Fashion vs. Fabricare, November/December 2012).

The Federal Trade Commission’s recent request for comments on garment care labeling is a symptom of the continuing problem facing our industry.

The manufacturer’s focus on marketability and profitability at times runs contrary to serviceability. It is the obligation of the garment care professional to recognize that the customer’s item has a unique set of handling characteristics and then determine the best way to protect those unique characteristics while reconditioning the item for continued use in the future.

That is a mouthful, I admit, but I hope you get the point. “They” design the garment and “we” have to clean and finish the garment.

CONCORD, N.C. — There are good rings, such as gold, silver, wedding, and even ear. But unfortunately, there are also some not-so-good rings: wet-side rings brought in to the cleaner by the customer, and wet-side rings left behind by attempts at stain removal.

These rings have one thing in common: as the circle of moisture dries, contents of the wet area migrate to the outer ring. We are never quite sure what the ring contains, but it is most likely water-soluble.

The rings that come across the counter from the customer usually contain a staining combination. Rings under the arms contain perspiration, while rings on the front are caused by beverages and sauces.

CONCORD, N.C. — In order to honor reader requests and continue a tradition, this month’s column addresses some of the more common “land mines” awaiting the professional cleaner during the holiday period.

Party clothes can be a great source of income if you have earned the respect of potential customers and have built a reputation for reliable stain removal.

OIL AND BUTTER

When tablecloths and napkins containing oil and butter are put away, those substances will oxidize. This type of stain is relatively easy to remove when treated early, but the stain will turn deep yellow to brown over time.

Treat oxidized oil with paint-oil-grease remover (POG) on the dry side. Allow the garment to sit for at least an hour before dry cleaning as normal. If this procedure fails to completely remove the stain, repeat it. If the stain still remains, your last option is using KOH solution, made by mixing one-quarter tablespoon of potassium hydroxide into a quart of butyl alcohol. Apply the KOH solution on the dry side and allow the garment to sit for an hour. Tamp and re-clean the area to remove the remaining stain.

CONCORD, N.C. — I have found that it is worthwhile to review the spotting basics from time to time. Without a reliable foundation, everything else contains unnecessary risk of failure or damage. But when information is applied through thought and effort, success is easily achieved.

CATEGORIES OF STAINS

Stains can be divided into four general categories: solvent-soluble, chemically soluble, water-soluble, and insoluble.

Solvent-soluble stains are those that will be totally removed by the solution used in the dry cleaning machine. As the number of choices for a cleaning solution has increased, the definition of a solvent-soluble stain has become a product of experience. With variations in chemical content comes a trade-off in the machine between being garment-friendly and being stain-aggressive. Typically, solvent-soluble stains come from light oils and greases that are uncontaminated with carbon or graphite.

CONCORD, N.C. — Not all garments are created equal, just as not all stains can be removed on the dry side by a simple application of POG and dry cleaning. How a garment is constructed, the way its individual fibers are twisted, turned and woven is an important consideration when attempting localized stain removal. This month, I will address various fabrics and the characteristics that may impact the stain-removal process.

ACETATE

At one time, acetate was a commonly used fabric in garments. With the growth of polyester, acetate has been relegated, for the most part, to the role of a lining material. Unfortunately, this secondary use brings to mind an old cliché: out of sight, out of mind. The acetate and its sensitivities are still there, beneath the surface fabric.

When spotting acetate, be aware that it is highly susceptible to yarn slippage. Hold the steam gun a greater distance from the fabric to further reduce the pressure of the steam and air striking the surface of the fabric. Reduce the intensity of mechanical action used on acetate, and always apply this action over the solid portion of the spotting board.

CONCORD, N.C. — A reader recently sent me an e-mail that contained several questions. I’ve decided that I’m going to use it as the basis of this month’s column, because the problems cited are common to many operations and my comments should provide guidance and options in your stain-removal efforts.

Q: I use _____ as my POG and lately it’s been leaving a chemical stain (ring) on the clothing that I dry clean…

A: Most paint, oil and grease removers (POG) should easily flush in the drycleaning system. The vast majority of POG can be divided into those that are based in alcohol and others that have an “oily” base (OTPR). It is important to know the contents of any chemical stain-removal agent, as some combinations of fiber, fabric and dye are extremely sensitive to the alcohol (pH).

When used on the dry side, POG is effective on chemically soluble stains such as cosmetics, paint and grease as well as aiding in the removal of difficult solvent-soluble stains. POG is generally ineffective on water-soluble stains.

CONCORD, N.C. — There are times when quality stain removal comes down to a series of little things. And there are times when the difference in returning a garment to the customer with traces of the stain vs. exceeding the customer’s expectations hinges on applying a slightly different tool or technique.

Here are some items that you can add to your stain removal toolbox easily and inexpensively:

COTTON SWABS

Cotton swabs are a helpful addition to any spotting board. These swabs are absorbent and free of pigment. By lightly rubbing a slightly damp swab on a garment or its trim, you can test dyes for bleeding.

Cotton swabs are ideal for applying bleaches (especially titanium dye stripper) at the spotting board. A swab will allow you to remove fugitive dye in close areas without fear of drips or contacting undesired areas.

WOODEN TOOTHPICKS

A wooden toothpick allows a spotter to precisely apply a minimum amount of bleach/dye stripper. It can be used to great advantage to restore your customer’s garments and to enhance your reputation.

CONCORD, N.C. — When I’m around fabricare colleagues, they often say a certain competitor “just doesn’t know how much he doesn’t know,” or a variation on that theme. Little things can make a big difference, and I’m going to remind you of a few that will help you offer more effective and safer stain removal.

It’s unfortunate when color loss happens during stain removal, and it’s even worse to present to a customer a garment with color loss that easily could have been corrected.

A change in color due to the pH of the spotting tool is usually correctable. As soon as you notice the color around the stain changing, pull the area over the vacuum nose of the spotting board and begin flushing with wet steam. Apply tannin/acid formula to neutralize a protein/alkali spotting agent, or protein/alkali to neutralize a tannin/acid spotting agent. The surrounding color will usually return to the original color quickly.

WHEN USING RUST REMOVER

A stain removal tool that must be neutralized immediately is rust remover. The most common type is dilute hydrofluoric acid.

CONCORD, N.C. —  I was interviewed recently for one of those all-too-common consumer reports on drycleaning. The reporter recounted horror stories at the cleaners. Soon, she hit a nerve: “My mom said that cleaners used to get out stains, but today they just make excuses.”

I sincerely hope that she is not referring to your operations. The technical side of garment cleaning carries as much importance to your success as do your promotional efforts. A reputation for poor quality and indifferent service will render each dollar you spend on advertising worthless.

I often hear that two stains—soy sauce and balsamic vinaigrette—are “impossible” to remove. Not true. Armed with knowledge and by giving a little effort, you can remove them and enhance your professional reputation.

CONCORD, N.C. — The stain-removal seminar was arranged for operators with less than 18 months experience. Just back from a break, I had started my discussion of tannin stain removal. After going through the protocol for the first time, a lady raised her hand and stood. With the conviction of a Baptist minister, she said, “You can’t do that.”

I asked her to explain. “They told me that the stains all come out in the cleaning machine,” she said. “You are wasting time and money. You can’t stay in business spending that much time on a garment.”

I wish that what she said was true. If it were that easy, a lot more people would succeed in the industry. But there will always be garments that demand more time and attention to clean.